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Post by indianatone on Sept 21, 2006 21:39:13 GMT -5
With the jacket half-zipped, and arms slightly raised (elbows out away from the body) does the jacket Oompa Loompa like this on all Indy Jackets? G&B, Wested, US Wings, etc. Under the arm is where I'm talking about specifically. I know the default argument is that it's either "needed for the drape" or "needed because of the action pleats" but I don't buy that 100%. This is also why the jacket sleeves rise on people. Not a need for a gusset, but a need for the jacket to run longer in the sleeve length under the arm and less so on the flare out at the sides. Thoughts? Comments? "Take a flying leap, Tone?" G-Mann, I'm really curious to see if the GB does this or not. Thanks.
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Post by IndyBlues on Sept 21, 2006 21:53:31 GMT -5
Good God Man!! You look like a flying squirrel!!! "Rocky,...watch me pull a rabbit outta my hat", lol Actually, I made this same arguement over at COW years ago, but it seems it's the nature of the beast. I think the only way to stop this is to order an 80's fit jacket, with a smaller arm hole opening, meaning the sleeve opening is closer to the armpit. I also believe that with gussets, this would eliminate ride up. But, I was flogged with a wet noodle, and told to go sit in the corner. Sometimes, it doesn't pay to be a rabble-rouzer. 'Blues
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2006 22:00:34 GMT -5
Tone, Ask and Ye Shall Receive The G&B arms up. Does it a bit too. Cheers, G-MANN
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Post by indianatone on Sept 21, 2006 22:25:26 GMT -5
"Flying squirrel!?" ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D It's too bad you got some flogging for this, IndyBlues. It really is a point on the jacket that should be looked at objectively. I agree about the flying squirrel look. There's too much "side" in the standard cut. (It really looks kind of laughable like this which is why I never zip it up and raise my arms. Now, there's the GB. Thank you, G-Mann. That's much less drastic and it looks much less emphasized with that cut. I'm hoping Todd's will have more sleeve length than side volume. Why would anyone argue that the above is 'normal', looks fine; and won't consider that this area needs some work? Very strange.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2006 22:30:02 GMT -5
The small 2 piece gussets might be helping a bit with this on my G&B. Does your Wested have the gussets Tone? Anyone? But, I was flogged with a wet noodle, and told to go sit in the corner. Sometimes, it doesn't pay to be a rabble-rouzer. 'Blues Excellent ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Cheers, G-MANN
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Post by jweaver on Sept 21, 2006 22:36:57 GMT -5
Yup, my Wested does it. All jackets without underarm gussets will do it, some worse than others. IMO, all modern jackets are cut big and this makes the problem worse. Thats including the Wested. I'm sure the other indy jackets are the same, but I don't own any others so I won't comment on them. My vintage A-2 (I promise pics of it one day) does it, but only slightly. With underarm gussets it wouldn't do it at all. This is due to the fact that the jacket is a slim fit. Its not tapered more toward the waist like Wested's 80's fit, its slimmer over all. The jacket in marked 44 and at the largest point around the chest measures 46. My wested is marked 46 and it measures 50 at the largest point around the chest. IMO, the cut of the jacket makes a huge difference.
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Post by indianatone on Sept 21, 2006 23:30:02 GMT -5
No gussets in mine, G-Mann.
I know that shape has to be there to some degree (my suit jackets do the same thing when the arms are raised) otherwise it stops being a jacket and becomes a really thick shirt, but it looks like there's too much room given in this area. Even the 80's fit goat does this too much in my opinion. I wonder if it's always been like this on the Wested or if it's another compensation that was introduced for the people who didn't like the way it felt too snug originally. But man, what does it take to order a "slim" fitting Raiders style jacket around here? There really are people out there who want, and can still wear the slimmer, slightly snug fit when they order these things.
The cut on the GB appears pleasingly much less pronounced in this area.
Wonder how the US Wings are?
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Post by Tycoonman on Sept 21, 2006 23:42:45 GMT -5
US Wings are just as bad as the one posted at the top, due to its modern fitting (Oversize Non-Military). But I rarely wear my jacket zipped up, I have to say it looks better unzipped anyways.
Tycoonman
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Post by indianatone on Sept 22, 2006 2:15:49 GMT -5
There still could be less jacket in this configuration. I think it'd look better. But hey, if I need a fast getaway, I can sail into the wind if needed.
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Post by Kt. Templar on Sept 22, 2006 4:30:27 GMT -5
My jacket doesn't do that, well nowhere near that much. It has single piece gussets. I don't have a pic from the front right now but this one from the back will give you an idea how it "stays put", Yes, I know it's unzipped. My jacket is cut pretty tight on the chest. public.fotki.com/KtTemplar/westedlbauth/pointing.html
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Post by Ragingblues on Sept 22, 2006 10:14:55 GMT -5
I just checked both my Wested's, and they look similar to your's Tone. I guess we're just a bunch of flying squirrels! Ken
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2006 10:34:10 GMT -5
Tone, I went through the parts of Raiders where Indy's Jacket is zipped up. Raven Bar and Truck Chase. There are no scenes where his arms are in the exact position in question here. These are the closest I could find. Still at this point his arms are all the way over his head so it's not a great comparisson. Cheers, G-MANN
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Post by Kt. Templar on Sept 22, 2006 12:49:12 GMT -5
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Post by indianatone on Sept 22, 2006 13:29:33 GMT -5
Very, very interesting, guys. KT, that definitely is not a Wested S-Mod-Flying Squirrel model. I also note where the underarm sleeve length rides up higher to meet the sleeve opening. (Maybe they are forced to make the sleeve length correctly this way in order to fit the gusset when it's ordered.) It looks much better like that. Thanks for those pics. I still don't think the gusset should be required to keep the S-Mod-Flying Squirrel version from happening. Below is a comparison between my Wested Lamb and another Non-Indy modern slim cut. The natural "V" occurs in both but is much less drastic when the underarm length of the sleeve is cut longer. Now, you may look at these and say they're both doing the exact same thing here, but the point of interest is not that they flare out at all - like we all agree, jackets "have" to do this - but that aesthetically, the way in which the Wested standard cut does this could stand for some change. It would explain how Indy, Shorty, and Willey got out of the plane in that raft, though. He had his jacket zipped before they jumped.
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Post by Ragingblues on Sept 22, 2006 16:14:08 GMT -5
Here's my entry in the mighty Flying Squirrel Wested showdown: Ken
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2006 16:33:26 GMT -5
Sounds like an idea for a new Contest. "Who looks the most like Rocky the Flying Squirrel in A Wested". ;D Tone, That other Jacket is dang nice too Cheers, G-MANN
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2006 17:21:17 GMT -5
One other thought here, does the amount of tension on the straps affect this?
Cheers, G-MANN
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Post by Kt. Templar on Sept 22, 2006 17:27:47 GMT -5
I think the strap tension does affect it slightly my straps are slightly looser than Tone and RB's.
However, my zipper is also pulled up higher. If I drop it to the tops of the pockets like they've got, my jacket also shows some 'winging'. So the question is if you pull the zipper to the position I have it do you still see squirrel wings?
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Post by indianatone on Sept 23, 2006 2:29:53 GMT -5
;D ;D RB, you've got the expression of the Flying Squirreleteer down in that pic. G-Mann, that other jacket is a beater (cowhide) that I can't seem to destroy. It had been my "holding" Raiders jacket until Wested. KT, I'll have to give that a try and see how it looks tomorrow. Although, now I'm not so sure I want a normal-looking Wested. I'd be out of the FS Squadron Club.
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garzo
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Post by garzo on Sept 25, 2006 6:03:00 GMT -5
Hi Folks, I'm new here but have posted a few times over at COW. I have a Wested Horsehide and without the gussets and it squirrels out a bit as well. It's something I noticed write away when I got the jacket. I love it, but it always felt like it could be taken in a bit. Now, has any one here ever had their Wested altered by someone else? I've been considering taking it to a leather taylor and asking them to take it in (and possibly adding X-box stitching which I didn't bother to ask for when I ordered the jacket). I think my sleeves are long enough so that if it's taken in at the sides, the sleeves would not necessarily be too short. . .
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Post by Kt. Templar on Sept 25, 2006 7:10:30 GMT -5
Hi there Garzo, welcome aboard.
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garzo
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Post by garzo on Sept 25, 2006 9:28:23 GMT -5
Hi there Garzo, welcome aboard. Thanks KT. Glad to be here. Looks like a friendly and helpful community!
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Post by pitfallharry on Sept 28, 2006 1:15:12 GMT -5
;D I just saw this thread and the pics. You guys look like your ready to going running around the house pretending to be an airplane with your arms stretched out like that. I always assumed all leather jackets did this. Everyone I've owned seems to do this when I lift my arms up. Off the rack I wear an extra large so it's not that their to small on me. I'll have to put my Westie on and see how bad mine does this.
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Post by indianatone on Sept 28, 2006 2:38:35 GMT -5
I agree that alll jackets do this to a degree as mentioned early in the thread. It's mainly the section marked in white here. That is where the sleeve seams meet the coat body. Appears to me as if there's not quite enough sleeve length used in the pattern. The underarm seam should not be so far outward like that when the arms are moved like this. 's all I'm sayin'.
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Post by jweaver on Sept 28, 2006 21:52:56 GMT -5
I think a smaller diameter sleeve (i.e. tighter around the shoulder/underarm) would also help fix this problem.
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