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Post by indianatone on Sept 28, 2006 23:27:09 GMT -5
Really?  Too wide, J_Weaver? In my case, I don't feel the sleeves are too wide on mine. But, if the sleeves were longer the sleeve hole seams (marked in gray) wouldn't have to stretch out so far. It just looks like there is too much room given in the cut of the body portion of the jacket here and it might look better fitting if the sleeve were placed somewhere in the realm of the black outline.  This is starting to look like a John Madden play review. LOL! BTW, welcome, Garzo.  |
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Post by jweaver on Oct 1, 2006 15:15:05 GMT -5
I guess the sleeve thing really depends of the build of the person wearing the jacket. For me, my Wested could be slimmer in the body as well as the sleeves. (mostly from the elbow down.)
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Post by bendingoak on Oct 3, 2006 19:40:35 GMT -5
Tone , how much is your side straps pulled?
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Post by indianatone on Oct 5, 2006 22:48:36 GMT -5
I know what you're thinking with that one, Oak. The sleeve seams still ride out like that even with the straps undone.
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Post by bendingoak on Oct 7, 2006 11:45:43 GMT -5
I have to say that mine doesn't do that ( that much). very odd. The more I pull the straps the more that happens for me. Yours on the other hand does look like you are about to fly away. I have to check my cowhide Wested for this. I haven't had a chance to wear it because it came in the summer time.
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Post by indianatone on Oct 11, 2006 2:22:03 GMT -5
That's interesting, BendingOak. Where does the bottom of the arm seam stop on that jacket that doesn't do it? Does the sleeve seem to be generally longer than what's been shown in the pics?
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Post by bendingoak on Oct 11, 2006 14:17:23 GMT -5
I have to say mine looks closer to what you had drawn over your photo or your none indy brown leather jacket.
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Post by erriwan on Oct 13, 2006 16:57:06 GMT -5
Sorry if I don't bother reading all what you wrote but seeing your first picture, Tone, I can suggest next time to order a jacket a bit shorter on shoulders. I remember someone ordered a jacket higher on sleeves attachment (I think it was rick1515)... but nowadays a modify like that would maybe cost you a fortune!
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Post by indianatone on Oct 13, 2006 18:06:21 GMT -5
Bending Oak, that's very interesting. I have a hunch as to why that happens on some jackets and it goes to the fact that the specs asked for on Wested's website may lead a person into giving the wrong specs (sleeve-length) based on how they are instructed to do so from there.
Purely hypothetical, but Wested asks for the length from shoulder seam to cuff on the site. This measurement will be different than the taylor's method for measuring sleeve length from middle of the neck, along the shoulder, down the sleeve, arm slightly bent, and to the cuff.
Is there any relation to those who gave Wested's suggested shoulder seam of the cuff measurement vs. those who measured and gave specs from the taylor method? Now that would be interesting if the jacket fit had consistencies based on how measurements were given.
In my case, I gave the measurement from shoulder seam to the cuff.
Erri, I'm not sure higher shoulders are the key so much as the sleeve length itself and where it places the rest of the jacket when they're too short.
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Post by bendingoak on Oct 13, 2006 18:41:14 GMT -5
Tone, I think you may be on to something there. My wife was a disigner before moving up the ranks. She took my measurments and gave them both shoulder mesurments and sleave measurments. I took measurments from a old leather jacket that fits me like a dream ( Wested suggested ,on there site).
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Post by bendingoak on Oct 13, 2006 18:48:41 GMT -5
I just checked my cowhide and it does this even less than the auth. lamb. Another thing I notice is that my yoke seem to be in the place closer to Ford Rader jacket than most Iv'e seen unless they wen't out of there way to Wested. I have to say that I gave them very little instructions other than 2 sets of measurments ( 1 taken of me and the other off of a old jacket). The other instructions I gave them is that I wanted brass d rings and to get it close to the raiders jacket as possible. I ended up getting what I wanted. Maybe I'm not as pickey as most like I'm with the fedora but I seem to get some of the things that most didn't get when they wen't out of there way to ask for. Odd.
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Post by indianatone on Oct 13, 2006 18:58:03 GMT -5
Gah! That actually puts it back to square one. I sent the specs from shoulder seam to cuff based off the measurement of the other jacket shown in this thread. Peculiar. |
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Post by Connecticut Jones on Oct 13, 2006 19:46:18 GMT -5
tone.. have a look at my wested.... it does the flying squirrel thing.. but not too bad.. and also.. keep in mind.. I think I`m a bit " rounder" than you.. but .. its just very intersting... and i did notice that zipper position has a HUGE affect  |
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Post by indianatone on Oct 13, 2006 20:20:48 GMT -5
Yes. Thanks for that, CJ. Maybe it's best to accept that the jacket just plain does this. You've got the "I own a Flying Squirrel" expression down pat, though! |
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Post by bendingoak on Oct 15, 2006 10:07:10 GMT -5
tone, looking at the above pic. Do you wan't your jacket to come straight down from armpit? I think mif you did this you wouldn't move very well when zipped up. It is very funny that some have more flying squirrel than others.
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Post by garzo on Oct 27, 2006 20:40:22 GMT -5
Well, I have to say I wasn't too thrilled with the cut of my Wested horsehide. I love the jacket but since I got it earlier this year I felt it was a tad to wide, although shoulders and sleeves were perfect. It was still pretty shapeless and and had the wide squirrel cut.
Fortunately, I have a leather tailor right around the corner from where I live and I was there today with the jacket. She is going to take it in a bit near the armpits. I don't have any gussets and I had a regular cut. I think after the alteration it will be closer to the 80s Cut as it will come in closer to the armpit and make the whole jacket narrower and more close-fitting. She assured me it would not alter the length of the sleeves.
While she's at it, she's adding X-stitching onto the side-straps, something I failed to ask for the first time around and wish I had.
Will report on the progress. . .
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Post by indianatone on Oct 27, 2006 20:42:53 GMT -5
Hey Garzo. I have not had the Wested altered but I've wondered about that. If it's a tailor who's familiar with working with leather I would think it wouldn't be too hard for them. Maybe someone else here can chime in with their experience, but I'd be very curious to see how that turned out if you did get it done. |
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Post by garzo on Oct 28, 2006 8:29:59 GMT -5
Hi Indiana Tone,
the place I took it to is a small shop specializing in leather alteration and repairs. I live in Berlin, Germany, and fortunately, there are still a lot of small traditional tailor, leather and shoe repair shops here.
Tatjana, the proprietor, said it would be a piece of cake. She would just have to undo the seems under the armpit and a bit on the inside sleeve, take out about 4 cm on either side, and re-stitch. While she's at it, she'll undo the lining in order to X-stitch the sidestraps for me -- all for around €30 ($35). Like I said, I have the regular cut (44) and it fits me perfectly at the shoulder and sleeves and in the overall length, but the jacket hangs very wide and formless. Tatjana says its a standard, "leisure" cut, meaning I suppose a "one-size-fits-all type of cut, as opposed to Wested's more defined 80s cut. Depending on how you use the jacket, such a wider a cut could be more comfortable when layering or wearing thick sweaters underneath. Indeed, my jacket always felt like more of a coat than a jacket, but that's not what I want from an Indy jacket.
I prefer the cut of some other leather jackets I own, including an ANJ pilot jacket and an aero highwayman, both of which are much more form-fitting. I'm hoping the alteration will mean a major improvement.
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Post by Ragingblues on Oct 28, 2006 9:35:23 GMT -5
Hey Garzo, It sounds like everything should go very smoothly with the alterations. If you wind up with the fit you wanted, you will have given new hope to many "squirreled out" Wested owners.... or, let's just say... people that didn't order the 80's fit and now wish they had. It won't fix the back seam placement, but I'll bet you inspire a few others to have their's altered as well. Good luck and thanks for sharing! Ken |
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Post by indianatone on Oct 28, 2006 12:03:06 GMT -5
Yes, it will certainly be a sign of hope for a few if your jacket comes out the way you wanted after the tailor. You pretty much nailed it with the "coat" vs. "jacket" comparison. I do think the standard cut came about based on complaints just like that, where, instead of understanding they got the right jacket the first time, people wanted the jacket to wear more like a coat. I'm betting Wested probably heard, "Feels like a costume! It's really snug, I don't like it!" long enough to just go ahead and make a standard cut to deal with "layering" needs in general. Great, but like yourself, I want an Indy jacket that fits closer (for Indy stuff). If I want to layer or wear a coat to dinner I'll use another jacket.
Are you taking some before and after pics?
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Post by IndyBlues on Oct 28, 2006 12:46:35 GMT -5
I totally agree with Tone on this. I remember when I first bought my wested, i was more concerned with being able to fit a hoody, or a sweater under it, than actually getting it to fit nice and close like the film jacket. I think that's everyones first attempt, considering how most people are used to a jacket fitting in todays world. Good call, Tone 'Blues BTW, are you sure you want to go thru with this alteration?? If I'm reading it right, you want to make the underside of the sleeves reach the body seam a few inches closer. If it's what I'm thinking, that won't change the loose body fit at all, and will only hinder your movement in the jacket more. I think you've got the right idea, but a little off in what the outcome will be. I think the body has to go up into the armpit area more, not the sleeve getting shortened at the armpit. See where I'm going with this? If you look at Tones picture with the areas drawn in where it needs to be altered, you will see what I mean. 'Blues |
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Post by garzo on Oct 28, 2006 18:01:22 GMT -5
Hey IndyBlues,
actually you're diagram is spot on and that's exactly what my tailor is doing. She's taking a bit out of the armpit area but from the body, not the sleeves. But since the sleeves are cone-shaped and wider in the upper arm, she will make the upper arm just a tad narrower to fit with the tightened inseam. She's basically tightening up the upper area, with no changes made to the lower area, except for the additional x-stitches.
Unfortunately I didn't take any pics right before taking it in, but I may have some from a recent trip. Will check and post.
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Post by garzo on Oct 28, 2006 19:12:06 GMT -5
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Post by garzo on Oct 28, 2006 19:16:12 GMT -5
I tried to upload the image but didn't work, but there's a link.
How do you get an image posted?
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Post by IndyBlues on Oct 28, 2006 20:36:03 GMT -5
Go here, and join up. It's free. Upoad an image from your PC, and then cut and paste the third URL under your uploaded pic, paste it here. Very simple.
'Blues
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