About to order a custom Wested... quick question

[greyfedora]

I'm about to order a Wested horsehide. What does the 'Marc specs' (which I've read on this board) include? I want to see if the specs I want are already included with his.

[Kaplan]

Hi there,
knowing Marc, his list of specs have to be a few pages long. However, I would be weary giving a long list of specs to Wested. I was told that the list of specs that Marc sent for his own jacket weren't entirely executed and the jacket had to be sent back. This, unfortunately would be typical when dealing with Wested (a great company with very nice people, however they are not very consistent.)

Good luck!

[greyfedora]

Thanks, I'll probably nix the idea then. I just wanted to see if my specs would be included in his specs.

I only have six or seven requests that I can going to send to Peter with my order. Does anyone have the shoulder measurement for a custom jacket?

[Ragingblues]

Does anyone have the shoulder measurement for a custom jacket?

That decision rests on your shoulders.


Ken

[greyfedora]

Not quite, the order form does not have an input for the shoulder measurement; that's why I'm asking. Peter must use a standard shoulder measurement per chest size.

[Ragingblues]

Dec 3, 2008 17:25:36 GMT -5 greyfedora said:

Not quite, the order form does not have an input for the shoulder measurement; that's why I'm asking. Peter must use a standard shoulder measurement per chest size.

I was joking, of course. But, you do realize that even if he did use a standard jacket size to base your custom jacket from.... you haven't told anyone what your size is. So, it still rests on your shoulders to tell us.

That said, you can (and many people do), specify almost every measurement on the jacket itself. This adds to the difficulty in making it, as well as the chance it won't fit right when people receive their own "creation"... a jacket fully custom measured by non jacket makers. Giving you the measurements from my two Wested jackets would mean nothing when compared to other custom jackets, as you would never know if the person specified a different shoulder measurment or not.

I still believe that the easiest way to get a good fitting jacket from Wested is to give them your jacket size, sleeve length, and a choices from the standard list of options. Once the order goes off the charts from that point, there are too many ways it can go wrong. My biggest issues with Wested Indy jackets, are still the sleeve socket placement, and over sized pockets. Knowing how unlikely it is to get them to change those two basic things, I can only imagine how well a laundry list of jacket specs are received with a new order.


Ken

[greyfedora]

I wear a 44. I just need an idea of how long the shoulder usually runs (length of ranges) in order to determine my sleeve length. I have an e-mail sent to Peter.

His web site says 6.85 but I want to make sure.

[Tyrloch]

Ken,

I just bought Pagey's washed goatskin jacket from him, and at least on the OTR jackets, it seems Wested has corrected the socket/seem problem. It was my observation that the standard jackets had a socket that was too large, as on a suit jacket, and on the 80's fit it was too small, so that the jacket couldn't be worn with anything heavier than a t-shirt -- unless you happen to have extremely skinny arms. This OTR jacket almost has the mobility you would expect from a jacket with gussetts, and I can also wear it comfortably with a light sweatshirt over a t-shirt underneath. Not to mention that I also have a slightly larger than average arm measurement, so the 80's fit that I had to sell was wetsuit-tight on my upper arms. I can't comment on the pocket size, as honestly I never really got to fixated on them -- I would only ask Wested to make them "...on the smaller side." But from my recent experience, and what I've read lately, I think Wested is making some improvements in fit as well as durability with their jackets...

~Jace

[Ragingblues]

Dec 3, 2008 20:19:15 GMT -5 Tyrloch said:

Ken,

I just bought Pagey's washed goatskin jacket from him, and at least on the OTR jackets, it seems Wested has corrected the socket/seem problem. It was my observation that the standard jackets had a socket that was too large, as on a suit jacket, and on the 80's fit it was too small, so that the jacket couldn't be worn with anything heavier than a t-shirt -- unless you happen to have extremely skinny arms. This OTR jacket almost has the mobility you would expect from a jacket with gussetts, and I can also wear it comfortably with a light sweatshirt over a t-shirt underneath. Not to mention that I also have a slightly larger than average arm measurement, so the 80's fit that I had to sell was wetsuit-tight on my upper arms. I can't comment on the pocket size, as honestly I never really got to fixated on them -- I would only ask Wested to make them "...on the smaller side." But from my recent experience, and what I've read lately, I think Wested is making some improvements in fit as well as durability with their jackets...

~Jace

Well, that would make two huge improvements, IMO.

I wonder if they are willing to carry over the pocket sizing and sleeve socket placement issues to their regular jackets. Don't they outsource one or more of the special models? I could easily be mistaken about that, but wanted to make sure.... simply because it applies to this particular issue.


Ken

[Tyrloch]

Ken,

If I have it straight, Wested outsources the OTR jackets -- they are made in India, unless you request an England-made jacket. The custom order stuff is all made at Wested in the UK.

~Jace

[Ragingblues]

Dec 4, 2008 15:03:54 GMT -5 Tyrloch said:

Ken,

If I have it straight, Wested outsources the OTR jackets -- they are made in India, unless you request an England-made jacket. The custom order stuff is all made at Wested in the UK.

~Jace

That's what I thought.... which makes me wonder if getting Peter and the gang to adjust the way "they" make the sleeve joints or pocket shapes, will be any easier than usual now. I get the feeling they don't like to change certain aspects of how they make the jackets. I think that may be why he included the often requested variances in the outsourced model patterns.


Ken

[Tyrloch]

Ken,

I had been thinking along the same lines -- I was interested in their new ToD offering, but was wondering if the OTR fit would hold true with the jackets still made at Wested. I would hate to order a custon/non-returnable jacket only to find out that the fit was less than what I had expected...I love the washed goatskin jacket that Pagey sold me -- the only thing I would possibly change would be a tapered back panel. But that's only because of my 30" waist, and that I like the jacket to fit a little snug at the bottom...

~Jace

[greyfedora]

Guys, I'm still trying to find an answer for my shoulder question.

[Tyrloch]

For what it's worth, I measured my OTR 40R straight down the seem for the collar stand to the shoulder/sleeve seem, and I got 6.75", which is a bit longer than Wested's site length of 6.65". Perhaps the discrepancy is because this was made in India & not England? Or is it just variances in pattern cutting? Either way, I hope this helps...

~Jace

[greyfedora]

I appreciate it, that's a lot of help actually. I'd imaging that the shoulder on mine will be around 7".

[Tyrloch]

I hope so, but take into account that the measurement may be off by a bit...

~Jace

[greyfedora]

Close enough. It can't be off more than a half-inch; most leather jackets in 44 I have seen have a shoulder anywhere from 6.5" to 7" depending on the sleeve length.

[Tyrloch]

Sounds like you're all set then. Good luck with the jacket!

~Jace

[greyfedora]

I got it ordered, thanks again!