Wested Jacket Questions

[jrabbit]

Hi all!

I'm new here, but I've spent all morning reading everything here available on Westeds. I am planning on ordering one next month, and have some questions that I've e-mailed to Gemma, but figured I'd post on here as well since so many of y'all have tons of experience with Wested jackets.

The bomber jacket I’ve had since 1986 finally has reached a point of retirement, blown zipper, mediocre fit, etc. I decided it was time to treat myself to the REAL thing. I’ve been reading everything I can about the Wested, and I’m convinced that one of their custom jackets is what I’m after.

Here's the questions I sent them:

1 – is there a difference in the “fit” of the Raider’s of the Lost Ark jacket and the Last Crusade/Crystal Skull jacket, or is it just the “finish” (It seems to me the Raider’s jacket is new and smooth, whereas the Last Crusade jacket is worn and “distressed”). I’m planning on using your custom fit option to make sure the jacket fits me the way it should , so this may be a moot point, but I wasn’t sure on what other differences there may be between the two styles.

2 – I live in Houston Texas where winters are pretty mild, so I think the Authentic Lamb is adequate. (one of my complaints with my old bomber jacket was that it was too hot most of the year). Is there any reason why I should consider Goatskin over Lamb?

3 – I’m have a fairly slim, athletic build, and I’d like the jacket to taper to fit me, not blouse out like most off the rack jackets do, and I read something about an “80’s cut” that is more tapered. Can you tell me more about the “80’s cut” and maybe what extra measurements I should take to help insure I get a good fit when ordering?

4 – I really like the slightly worn, distressed look of the sample jacket “Last Crusade/Crystal Skull Jacket ‘Authentic Lamb’”. Is the picture an accurate representation of the amount of “distress” I should expect from that style? I would like the jacket to look slightly less than “brand new” but not like it’s been through all the hell Indy put his through by the time Crystal Skulls takes place. Half the fun of having a fine leather jacket is wearing it in yourself right?


Thanks in advance for your help here folks.

Regards,

Jack Rabbit

[jrabbit]

OK, after more reading I've gotten a lot of questions answered.

But one of the simplest, I still don't know.

What are the differences between the Raiders jacket and the Last Crusade/Crystal Skull jacket? The only thing I can see is that the LC/CS has snaps at the top and bottom of the zipper.

Thanks for any insights you all have on this.

JackRabbit

[Ragingblues]

Aug 12, 2009 9:19:10 GMT -5 jrabbit said:

OK, after more reading I've gotten a lot of questions answered.

But one of the simplest, I still don't know.

What are the differences between the Raiders jacket and the Last Crusade/Crystal Skull jacket? The only thing I can see is that the LC/CS has snaps at the top and bottom of the zipper.

Thanks for any insights you all have on this.

JackRabbit

The biggest difference is the hide, as the Raiders jacket (and supposedly the LC one) were lambskin, while Crystal Skull jacket is cowhide. The Crystal Skull jacket also has double stitching on certain seams is very new/stiff looking overall.

The minor issues and differences will have to be addressed by someone into the jacket details. I never was one of those guys and only have one Indy jacket left out of three (the G&B lambskin).


Ken

[Kt. Templar]

All 4 films jackets have distinct details and there are leathers that seem to go better with each film to try and replicate the film look.

The original 3 jackets were all made in lambskin. There is some evidence that the Raiders jacket had some Merino lamb ribby structure although an actual screen used jacket has never come into public view to confirm this.

The Temple of Doom Jacket was a relatively smooth lambskin.

The Last Crusade is very smooth and seems to be a warmer lighter brown than the other 2 jackets there are some camps that insist the LC jacket is Cowhide but there are also strong indicators in the film that it was lamb. Just watch how thin the jacket is in the 'Birds in the Sky' sequence.

The Crystal Skull jacket was a medium weight slightly predisressed cowhide.

Details.

The Raiders jacket has a relatively short yoke, largish pockets and no poppers on the storm flap and no leather facings behind the zipper. The Zipper is a small gauge and silver coloured and end very close to the bottom of the jacket. It should have some sort of triglide side adjusters or rectangular paired rings. The foot of the jacket has a single line finishing stitch.

The Temple jacket has a larger yoke, small pockets and no popper and no facings. The Zipper is a large gauge aluminium type and it has rectangular 2-spiked buckles on the side adjusters. The lower hem of the jacket does not have a finishing stitch. A SA jacket has a nylon liner. The ToD has a different action pleat construction to the other jackets the lower opening is only about 1-1.5".

The LC has a larger collar and a stormflap that starts at the bottom edge of the collar stand. It has poppers on the storm flap and a medium gauge gold/brass zipper. It has a large yoke and D-rings on the side straps. It does not have facings on the zipper. The LC should have medium sized pockets with a large flap curved flap with a rounded centre point. The lining is dark brown satin. No finishing stitch at the bottom of the jacket.

The CS is similar to the LC in many ways, the film jacket was larger and looser. Main differences are, black lining, facings on the zipper, double stitched armholes. No finishing stitch at the bottom of the jacket. The pockets are narrower than the LC with a relatively straight edged flap and pointed centre point. The CS has a small gauge brass zipper.

Leathers:

Authentic lamb seems to be the main choice for many people, dark brown lamb too for Raiders and ToD.

Authentic brown lamb is better for LC or copper novapelle cowhide.

Copper or regular novapelle for the CS.

I really like the washed goat for Raiders and ToD. It ages fast and looks really lived in in a matter of months but still remains strong.

Bare in mind that these are my personal opinions and based on you wanting a Wested. Other people's milage WILL vary!

[Ragingblues]

KT is just the sort of guy I was hoping you would get a reply from. Detailed information from a guy that is very well informed on the subject.


Ken

[Kt. Templar]

Aug 12, 2009 15:17:48 GMT -5 Ragingblues said:

KT is just the sort of guy I was hoping you would get a reply from. Detailed information from a guy that is very well informed on the subject.


Ken

Thanks for the kind endorsement.

You just knew I was manically typing away as soon as the question was asked!

[jrabbit]

HUGE thanks for all the responses. That definitely helps with my decision.

I've got approval from the purchasing department (the wife) to place an order with Wested on September 1st!

It will most likely be as follows:

Style - Raiders jacket
Leather - Handwashed Goat
Customizations: custom measurements per the available boxes on the website order form, sliders with X stitch straps, Extra inside pocket, cotton body - satin sleeves inner lining, name embroidered = yes.

Question, how much thicker is the handwashed goat over lamb? I live in Houston so I don't need a really heavy jacket, and the more I can wear this one the better. If goat is too heavy, what version of lamb should I ask for in order to get the broken in distressed look?

Thanks again, I can't WAIT to get my jacket, and after finding this site and reading more and more, I'm certain a Fedora will soon follow.

Am I the only one who has the Indy theme playing in his head when I'm on here?

JackRabbit

[Kt. Templar]

I prefer have rectangular strap anchors with K box stitches.

Washed lamb is only marginally heavier than the lamb wested uses. However most of these jacket are not much fun to wear over about 65 degrees, for much time that is!

Washed goat is very flat matt when new and you really only see the brown in person, in pics it can look a bit grey. It is a naked leather so you will, almost unavoidably, occasionally have a faint dark spine mark on larger panels. Accept it or choose another leather.

examples, 5 year old authentic lamb on left, brand new washed goat on right. Note hem stich on the lamb and no hem stitch on the goat.



And brand new washed goat:

[jrabbit]

Wow KT, great looking jackets all.

What can you tell me about the "80's fit"? I wear a size 40 jacket, and plan on having the arms custom sized to fit right, and I have a size 32 waist. Since I don't want the jacket to blouse out much, but fit more snugly, should I ask for the "80's fit"?

Oh, and I'm not shooting for a dead on SA look, just my idea of the best of all looks for me. Plus, that will give me an excuse later on to get a truly SA second jacket right? ;D

Thanks again.

Oh and Ken, those video links on your auto sig. are great! Who was behind the camera? Too bad you didn't get some friends dress up like villains to fight

[Ragingblues]

Oh and Ken, those video links on your auto sig. are great! Who was behind the camera? Too bad you didn't get some friends dress up like villains to fight

Thanks much! They were made a few years ago and became a fun way for me to use the Indy stuff. The camera work was either on a tripod, done by myself, or by my wife if the camera was moving while I was in the scene. It would have been alot more fun to get other people involved, but I didn't know anyone in the area that was interested. It served it's purpose though, and I'm glad I have them.

Thanks again,

Ken

[Kt. Templar]

Aug 13, 2009 8:38:51 GMT -5 jrabbit said:

Wow KT, great looking jackets all.

What can you tell me about the "80's fit"? I wear a size 40 jacket, and plan on having the arms custom sized to fit right, and I have a size 32 waist. Since I don't placet the jacket to blouse out much, but fit more snugly, should I ask for the "80's fit"?

Why thank you!

Send them some pics of you and specify that you have a 32 waist. They may taper the jacket a bit for you. 80's fit was seems to be cut a half size smaller so it is tighter all round... but I don't know the ins and outs, I've never had one. There were supposed to be some of the SA specs as part of the 80's fit, but it's better not to assume anything IMO.

[jrabbit]

Good idea KT, I'll do just that. Thanks again for all the help.

I'll send them as much info as I can think of.

Weird thing is, I've not gotten an email response back from them. I sent it to both Gemma and the Wested addresses.

[Kt. Templar]

Another comparison pic for you.

Washed goat ToD, Novapelle CS, Authentic Brown Lamb Raiders - plus snaps.

[jrabbit]

Yep, after all those shots, it really helps solidify my choice of Washed Lamb RotLA.

Thanks again for all the help guys. This site is really awesome, glad I found it.

JackRabbit

[jrabbit]

Update - I ordered my jacket last night.

Let the countdown begin.

[Noah]

Those are all really nice

[jrabbit]

I got an e-mail from Gemma today, my jacket ships out tomorrow!

It seems Peter was having more trouble with Wested's e-mail server, so there was a bit of a backlog on replies to customers on the status of their orders. Peter did a good job of squaring it away, cheers to him on that.

I can't wait to see it.

[jrabbit]

OK, as promised, pics of my new Jacket:

[Noah]

Great jacket there Looks good on ya to

[inbanana]

Looks like you got the specs and fit you were looking for, not too shabby...

[Ragingblues]

Congrats on the new jacket! I wish you many years of great adventures while wearing it.


Ken

[Damned Dan]

That jacket looks sharp. Makes me want one.

[jrabbit]

Thanks guys!

I've been wearing it pretty much everyday since I got it. I'm in a 2 week training class and the classroom is freezing, so it's a good time to break it in. The washed goat is already starting to show some character, texture, and is getting softer and more supple. It's a GREAT leather.

Peter and Co. really did a bang up job on it. Big kudos to Wested.

JRabbit.