Wested Jacket Inquiry?

[indyfan007]

I am a newer member to the site and have been diligently working on trying to put together all of my Indy gear and such. I have definitely decided that I want to order the Wested Raiders custom jacket from their site, since I am primarily going for the overall Indy/Raiders look and such, however, I am still a little confused about some of the choices and selections and such. My main concern is to also make sure that it is as screen-accurate as possible as well. I have also read a lot of the other postings. Therefore, I will describe what I have determined and what I am still not that quite sure about and such. Any recommendations and suggestions will most definitely be greatly appreciated!

I am also going to a tailor to attempt to get measured exactly, in order to provide my proper measurements, since I have read about so many instances involving where others had to return their jackets, since they were not the correct and proper measurements and did not fit right and such. I am 5'7", 165 lbs., and my waist size varies between a 32-34, depending on whether it is jeans or dress suit slacks, since they are cut different a lot of times, and I know for sure that my normal, standard jacket size is a 40 Regular. My standard dress shirt size would be a 16 neck size and a 32/33 sleeve length. All of these standard measurements are also U.S. sizes. Overall, I want it to have a good fit, in order to get that really nice, screen-accurate Indy/Raiders look and style and such.

I also noticed that it appears that Wested offers two different Raiders jacket selections on their custom jackets section; therefore, I am slightly confused about that. Is one for a standard type of fit and the other for the slimmer type of fit or something? That is the only thing that I have been able to possibly determine about this so far.

What I have determined:

Jacket Size: 40 Regular

Sleeve Length: TBD by tailor

Back Length: TBD by tailor

Name Label (optional): (I know that this is just personal preference.)

Lining Type: All Cotton (I have read that this is considered to be the most screen-accurate and such.)

Extra Inside Pocket: Yes (I have read that the SA jacket did apparently have this.)

What I am still confused and not that sure about:

Skin Type: Authentic Brown Lambskin vs. Dk. Brown Lambskin (I still am not sure which one may be considered to be more screen-accurate, after distressing and such, even though I have read that it is just really personal preference and such.)

Side Straps: (Not sure about whether the D-Rings or the Sliders are considered to be the most SA and also whether or not the X-Box stitching is considered to be SA or not.)

Special Requests: (Not sure exactly what I should include and list here, in order to add any other additional requested information, in order to make it the most SA jacket possible...maybe something, such as the exact pocket size dimensions and such? Anyone know any exact info. about this and such?)

GUSSETS: (I have no idea what these even are considered and whether or not I should have these, since I also don't know if they would be considered SA or not.)

I greatly appreciate all and any help with my inquires!

Thank you!
Tyler

[Pennsylvania Jones]

Well, Tyler, The way I see it, authentic brown (seal brown) was the color of the jacket as it was when Mr. Botwright sent the jacket to the Raiders Costume Designer, Deborah Nadoolman. Later, they treated it to make the leather darker, and this is the jacket that was seen on the screen. So, technically, the dark brown lambskin is the "predistressed" version of the lambskin jackets. It's your personal preference whether you want to darken the leather yourself or have it come already darkened. This hobby has actually been seeking PROP accurate gear, but calling it SCREEN accurate, so they really want PA or Pennsylvania (Wow, what a coincidence! ;D). The SA/PA choice would be the one labeled ROLA. Prop accurate would be buying the authentic brown and darkening it with Pecards or something. If you want SCREEN accuracy, the only thing that matters is whether you want to darken it yourself or not. The side straps definitely had sliders, and an X-Box stitch MIGHT be screen/prop accurate (Hey, I'm no expert) . Gussets are, again, optional. Why? There was obviously more than one jacket used for filming, so it's possible that some had gussets and some don't. The G&B jacket is based on a jacket that had "Mick Jagger's Lips" shaped gussets. As for the requests, there have been complaints that the pockets were too tall, so why not attach a picture showing the correct pocket ratio? And, of course, I have a suggestion: don't add the extra inside pocket. If you read the description, it says "Standard specifications include two-way pockets, action pleats for arm movement, side vents, and a THE LEATHER BOUND INSIDE POCKET" that means there's already an inside pocket. If you get the extra inside pocket, you'll get two inside pockets, which wouldn't be PA. Choose wisely.

Pennsylvania Jones

[indyfan007]

Pennsylvania Jones,

Okay, that makes sense. Thank you so much for providing me with all of that info! Also, just so that I will be fully aware, what are gussets considered to be actually? I apologize, however, I am not familiar with that term at all, and was just not sure what part of the jacket that was considered, thus, not knowing for sure if that was considered to be SA/PA or not. Thanks so much!

Thank you,
Tyler

[Pennsylvania Jones]

Firstly, thank you for using the new phrase I coined. Secondly, about the gussets:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gusset

Under the armpit.

For the pocket ratio.

Thirdly, all of the info I have given you was second-hand, I don't own a Wested. I've gathered TONS of information from this forum, enough to know how to get the most SA/PA jacket Wested can provide.

You're welcome,
Pennsylvania Jones

[indyfan007]

Is there possibly any specific information available, regarding certain scenes in Raiders, as to which scene versions of the Raiders jacket did have the gussets and which other scene versions did not and such? Thanks so much!

Thank you,
Tyler

[inbanana]

I was wondering if you noticed this thread:
indylounge.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=jacket&action=display&thread=4180

I'm not really in the market for a new Raiders jacket right now, but I thought that the jacket (and the new leather) looked very interesting... however, I haven't heard any updates about that project lately...

[Pennsylvania Jones]

Tyler,

No, I don't have any specific info regarding which scene. If you tell me which scene you want, I'll try to find it (although It might be that only the stunt jackets had gussets).

Pennsylvania Jones