Proper way to measure for a Wested?

[cammer]

Hey guys,

New here. I joined because I want to order a nice Indy jacket for daily wear. After reading through many, many postings I have pretty well decided upon a Wested for my first jacket. There seem to be pros and cons to each type of leather and I'm fairly undecided about exactly which type of hide to order. I like the Wested because I can custom order my own measurements for a reasonable price.

What has been keeping me from actually placing an order has been my lack of expertise when it comes to measuring for a proper fit. Because of my build I have never had much luck with off the rack clothing. I have broad shoulders for my height, my chest is 47" and my waist is 34". I normally wear a size 30-32" Levis jean. My height is 5'7".

Normally what I have to do get clothing that will fit me is to buy a size XL Regular. But that leaves me with sleeves that end at the tips of my fingers and shirts/jackets that hang way too low. No one seems to make the XL Short size anymore.

Anyhow, I would like to know how to take the measurements for my sleeve length and back length. I emailed Peter but he was nonspecific in his reply, so I'm looking for some additional help here.


Cliffnotes -

1 - Where is a comprehensive listing of the pros and cons for each type of leather? goat / lamb / cow / horse / Novapelle(what is that anyway?)

2 - How do I measure sleeve and back length for a Wested jacket? Diagrams on this anywhere?

3 - Why is the cotton/satin lining recommended over full satin or full cotton?

Thanks for the help guys.

[GCR]

Honestly, the best way to get proper measurements for a Wested would probably be to go and have your measurements taken by a professional tailor or at a men's suit store or something. They know how to measure correctly in order to deterine the right sleeve length, chest size, etc.

[cammer]

Good advice, and so incredibly obvious that I feel rather silly having asked the question to begin with! ;D

I'll have to take a look in the Yellow Pages and see who I can find. I'd like to get this done in the next few days.

Well that's settled then. Anyone have advice on the other two questions? I've found no reason at all for any of the liners to be superior/inferior over the others. Anyone have a preference on that? Silk? Cotton? Combo?

Here is my take on the types of hide ;

Lamb - Pro - very soft and supple, screen authentic, drapes well
Con - least durable, very thin/lightweight

Goat - Pro - somewhat soft / supple after breaking in, looks fairly screen authentic, lightweight but not too lightweight, more durable than lamb
Con - requires significant breakin to get past the "pleathery" stage.

Cowhide - Pro - least expensive and very durable
Con - does not drape well, stiff until broken in

Horse - Pro - Most expensive and Most durable
Con - requires the longest break in period before looking right.

Novapelle - Not sure what this is? A synthetic horsehide?

If anyone has input or corrections on this that would be great.

[jnicktem]

One other option you have with the Goat is the Washed Goat... which would eliminate your con about it. Apparently it has a very leathery feel to it and it doesn't need much breakin' in.

[Ragingblues]

The easiest and most effective way to order a Wested (IMO), is to give them your jacket size, sleeve length, and list any extras you want on the jacket (x-box stitching, English or American zipper configuration, etc...).

This eliminates a ton of specific measuring for both yourself and the folks at Wested, which often yields a jacket that just doesn't fit right because of it.


Ken

[Deleted]

A lot of people order the cotton liner is it is Screen Accurate for the Raiders jacket.

Cheers,
John

[indyzane]

Do you live in the United States? If so try your local Nordstrom! When I was ordering my jacket from Wested that is what I did. Nordstrom will measure for free. Also tell them what your doing ordering a jacket overseas and need a little help. Normally it will be the same as your suit jacket or sport coat size. My jacket fits perfect I had a custom Indy jacket made and I love it! Hope this helps.

[cammer]

Thanks for the help guys, this site is great!

Oct 2, 2008 19:27:07 GMT -5 jnicktem said:

One other option you have with the Goat is the Washed Goat... which would eliminate your con about it. Apparently it has a very leathery feel to it and it doesn't need much breakin' in.

Yes, thanks for reminding me of that. I did read a nice positive review on the washed goat. Right now it's my first choice. I doubt that I will be ordering more than one jacket, at least for a couple years, so I want this to be as good as I can get it.

Oct 2, 2008 20:42:32 GMT -5 Ragingblues said:

The easiest and most effective way to order a Wested (IMO), is to give them your jacket size, sleeve length, and list any extras you want on the jacket (x-box stitching, English or American zipper configuration, etc...).

This eliminates a ton of specific measuring for both yourself and the folks at Wested, which often yields a jacket that just doesn't fit right because of it.

Thanks for the help. I don't want to sound like a smartass, but if I had my sleeve length, jacket size, etc, then I would not need to ask how to get it. LOL

Oct 2, 2008 20:46:43 GMT -5 @gmann said:

A lot of people order the cotton liner is it is Screen Accurate for the Raiders jacket.

Cheers,
John

This is a jacket that I plan on wearing a lot, so I'm more concerned with the practical reasons for cotton/satin/combo liners rather than screen accuracy. Do you have any personal preferences for one over the other? Is one type more durable? more comfortable?

Oct 3, 2008 1:09:26 GMT -5 indyzane said:

Do you live in the United States? If so try your local Nordstrom! When I was ordering my jacket from Wested that is what I did. Nordstrom will measure for free. Also tell them what your doing ordering a jacket overseas and need a little help. Normally it will be the same as your suit jacket or sport coat size. My jacket fits perfect I had a custom Indy jacket made and I love it! Hope this helps.

Thanks for the suggestion! Yes, I live in Florida and there are several large stores nearby that might be helpful. I believe that The Men's Wearhouse is nearby, along with Burlington Coat Factory. Good advice, I'll give them a try.

[Ragingblues]

Thanks for the help. I don't want to sound like a smartass, but if I had my sleeve length, jacket size, etc, then I would not need to ask how to get it. LOL

You don't own a suit or jacket already? Who doesn't know what jacket size they wear?

If not, you obviously haven't been wearing jackets that are made to fit you well to start with. So, you shouldn't head down the road of stressing about tailored garments now.

I think you're really missing the point here. Too many people make ordering a jacket from Wested into a stressful ordeal full of specific measurements, that just over-complicate things. However you decide which jacket size is right for you (42R, 44L, etc...), that plus your sleeve length is all you need to get a great fitting jacket.

Or, you can immerse yourself in the world of fretting over every measurement, and take the real chance that you've created a non-returnable item that doesn't fit well.


Ken

[cammer]

Oct 3, 2008 8:27:56 GMT -5 Ragingblues said:

Thanks for the help. I don't want to sound like a smartass, but if I had my sleeve length, jacket size, etc, then I would not need to ask how to get it. LOL

You don't own a suit or jacket already? Who doesn't know what jacket size they wear?

If not, you obviously haven't been wearing jackets that are made to fit you well to start with. So, you shouldn't head down the road of stressing about tailored garments now.

I think you're really missing the point here. Too many people make ordering a jacket from Wested into a stressful ordeal full of specific measurements, that just over-complicate things. However you decide which jacket size is right for you (42R, 44L, etc...), that plus your sleeve length is all you need to get a great fitting jacket.

Or, you can immerse yourself in the world of fretting over every measurement, and take the real chance that you've created a non-returnable item that doesn't fit well.

Wow. Okay, I'm going to assume that you really didn't intend to be as condescending as your tone came off.

Who doesn't know what jacket size they wear?? How about straight married guys who haven't bought a jacket in a few years.

You are making the assumption that I "obviously haven't been wearing jackets that are made to fit me well to start with." Those are your words. Are you trying to be rude here?

Here's the deal Ken. I actually own several jackets that fit me well, at least they used to. But now, no, I do not own a jacket that fits me. But not for the reason that probably comes to your mind. In fact, every decent jacket that I have ever purchased I have had tailored for a proper fit.

Since the last time I bought a jacket I have lost four inches in my waist and gained about 15 pounds of lean mass. My old jackets don't fit me anymore. I can't even cross my arms while wearing one. But I'm built much heavier in the chest and arms now.

So should I "head down the road of stressing about tailored garments now?" No, I went down that road a long time ago, but the only time I was ever stressed was when I had the suit tailored for me that I wore on our honeymoon cruise. Now that jacket won't even fit over my arms.

So Ken, am I really missing the point? Am I turning this into a stressful ordeal? No, I'm not. I just asked ONE question about size and a very helpful and respectful person gave me some really good and obvious advice, which I am taking.

I think you are making some assumptions and overstating my question by quite a bit. I'm not going to "immerse" myself in anything. And I'm not fretting over every little measurement. All I asked for was how to obtain a proper jacket measurement. And all I am going to send to Wested is what is on the online order form. So I am going to run up to a reputable shop and get a jacket size.

[Ragingblues]

Oct 3, 2008 20:21:51 GMT -5 cammer said:

Oct 3, 2008 8:27:56 GMT -5 Ragingblues said:

You don't own a suit or jacket already? Who doesn't know what jacket size they wear?

If not, you obviously haven't been wearing jackets that are made to fit you well to start with. So, you shouldn't head down the road of stressing about tailored garments now.

I think you're really missing the point here. Too many people make ordering a jacket from Wested into a stressful ordeal full of specific measurements, that just over-complicate things. However you decide which jacket size is right for you (42R, 44L, etc...), that plus your sleeve length is all you need to get a great fitting jacket.

Or, you can immerse yourself in the world of fretting over every measurement, and take the real chance that you've created a non-returnable item that doesn't fit well.

Wow. Okay, I'm going to assume that you really didn't intend to be as condescending as your tone came off.

Who doesn't know what jacket size they wear?? How about straight married guys who haven't bought a jacket in a few years.

You are making the assumption that I "obviously haven't been wearing jackets that are made to fit me well to start with." Those are your words. Are you trying to be rude here?

Here's the deal Ken. I actually own several jackets that fit me well, at least they used to. But now, no, I do not own a jacket that fits me. But not for the reason that probably comes to your mind. In fact, every decent jacket that I have ever purchased I have had tailored for a proper fit.

Since the last time I bought a jacket I have lost four inches in my waist and gained about 15 pounds of lean mass. My old jackets don't fit me anymore. I can't even cross my arms while wearing one. But I'm built much heavier in the chest and arms now.

So should I "head down the road of stressing about tailored garments now?" No, I went down that road a long time ago, but the only time I was ever stressed was when I had the suit tailored for me that I wore on our honeymoon cruise. Now that jacket won't even fit over my arms.

So Ken, am I really missing the point? Am I turning this into a stressful ordeal? No, I'm not. I just asked ONE question about size and a very helpful and respectful person gave me some really good and obvious advice, which I am taking.

I think you are making some assumptions and overstating my question by quite a bit. I'm not going to "immerse" myself in anything. And I'm not fretting over every little measurement. All I asked for was how to obtain a proper jacket measurement. And all I am going to send to Wested is what is on the online order form. So I am going to run up to a reputable shop and get a jacket size.

Here's the deal. You obviously aren't very observant enough to be able to properly configure you're own jacket if you missed the word "Admin" under my name.

If you're going to pop into a community and ask for help, then deflect an honest attempt at doing just that with a sarcastic remark, expect one in return.

And.... have the sense enough to think twice before firing back at that person blindly, without consideration as to it is. I was trying to offer friendly advice to you, being the owner of three Indy jackets, two of which are Westeds. Along with running this place for over 2-1/2 years, I think I've seen my share of poorly ordered jackets and the despair that follows hard earned money being wasted on jackets that don't fit right.

So, good luck to you in your quest.... and don't let the door hit you on the way out.


Ken